Replacing the CV in the D-Max

As mentioned in my last blog, I was unfortunate enough to break my passenger side CV joint while wheeling out in Lithgow. The combination of the additional strain placed on the CVs from being lifted, bigger tyres and having the front locker engaged while trying to steer (the main contributing factor), led to me busting the CV on the wheel side. 

I'm all about getting out and exploring the great outdoors on a budget, but it is important to understand where you can and can't buy cheaper gear. A genuine CV joint is stronger compared with an aftermarket CV so it is best to get yourself an original replacement. Aftermarket CVs tend to either be weaker or too strong compared with a genuine CV. Even though being stronger sounds like a benefit, this would actually relay additional stress back onto the diff and the rest of the drive train. You can think of a CV as like a fuse, it will break in order to protect the more vital components. 

It is for this reason I bought myself a CV directly from Isuzu for $870, then I'll buy an aftermarket spare for about $180. The spare will be so that I can change the CV over on the tracks, still head home and then install a genuine at home. This way I won't need to be towed home or be left without a car until I can change the CV. The next mod for the Dmax will be installing manual locking hubs. This allows for the CV to be disengaged from the wheel, allowing you to drive in 2 wheel drive, so if I didn't have a spare, I can still drive.

Not knowing how to remove the CV was clearly the biggest problem we faced. All in all, it took us a good 8 hours to change over but know what needs to be removed (which is virtually everything) and how it all is removed, the job would be nowhere near as bad.

To change the CV over we used a range of basic hand tools that most people will have;

• 10, 12, 17, 19mm and a 15/16 sockets/spanners and a couple of extension pieces
• Rachet
• Shifter
• Flathead screwdrivers
• Hammer/mallet (to jolt free the steering arm)
• Allen/Hex Keys
• Circlip and short nose Pliers
• Jack (ideally jack stands as well if you had them)
• Wheel brace (even if you have the right size sockets, really handy to add more leverage)
• Oil pan (to catch diff oil) and either a pump bottle or we use a funnel and old garden hose to refill the diff oil.

These are the steps that we did in removing and installing the CV.

Removing the broken CV

1. Remove axel bolts prior to removing tyre as the jack gets in the way. (The diff itself doesn't need to be supported as there are other bolts holding this up, however, we found that pushing the diff up when reinstalling made life easier. If you were on your own I would use a second jack) This can be done later, but it is easier to do first. 
2. Jack up the car and remove the tyre. It is safer to install jack stands under the chassis to support the car rather than leaving it on the jack.
3. Use an Alan key to remove the wheel hub cap and then use circlip pliers to remove circlip and hub
4. 
   Unbolt steering arm, as well as brake callipers (don’t forget the brake sensor) 
5. Undo the 8 bolts (4 top and bottom) on the upper and lower control arms
6. Slide the rotor off
7. Remove CV joint bolts that go into the diff and chassis if not already been done and remove broken CV. Have something to catch the diff oil that will spill out.
8. Remove bearings off the broken CV and install on replacement CV. (There is a circlip for each bearing)

Installing the New CV

1. 
   Reinstall the bearings onto new CV as mentioned
2. Slide the new CV into the diff. The end with the smaller shaft goes into the diff. Do the 4 diff and 1 chassis bolts back up. You will need to ensure that the diff is held level in order to allow for the bolts to line up. This is where the second set of hands or jack comes in handy.
3. Reinstall the rotor and connect the upper and lower control arms. 
   
4. Connect the steering arm, brake callipers and braking sensor
5. Reassemble the wheel hub including circlip. Add the hub cover back on and tighten allen keys
6. Ensure all bolts are tight prior to putting the wheel back on, then lower the car back onto level ground
7. Top up the diff oil

These are the steps I took in changing the CV in my Dmax but it may differ for each car, however, I learnt through plenty of research and from what we did when changing the front diff. Now obviously I'm not a mechanic so it is important that if in doubt, get it done by a pro.